The furnace gets serviced every year,new filter,new nozzle and cleaned. Joe, I agree that you should not smell heating oil when the equipment is running. Because you describe the smell as not continuous, just at start-up, I suspect a dirty system that needs cleaning and service.
Or you could have a dirty chimney and bad draft. Most likely you've got a system that is not running properly and is stinking up things at start-up. Once strong draft is established and the system is up to full operating temperature typically 5 minutes , the draft improves and combustion may improve enough to keep going.
But the system is not running properly. Watch out : if this condition continues the risk is a puffback that can damage the equipment and blow soot around the building. A blocked or dirty chimney or lack of combustion air or other causes could be present - ask your heating service company manager to send a technician who will diagnose and fix the problem.
It sounds as if the usual annual service procedure has not been sufficient. That's no surprise. During the heating season the techs are overworked and over committed and sometimes will just clean the system without taking the time to diagnose an actual problem and fix it. I have an aero burner on my hot water furnace. Starts and runs perfect most of the time. Every once in a while it will not re-light I press the reset button, it might run perfect for a week or two, then one day it will not light Press button again,starts right up and runs perfect, maybe for two days or two weeks again, then all of a sudden it will not light Any suggestions what to look for.
Usually when a system is limping along as yours is described, the operating problem is going to get worse. I'd look for an air leak in the oil piping, a dirty oil burner, a clogging filter, a draft problem. I kept the oil furnace running continuous for about two hours, then it stopped running by itself. I pushed the reset on the stack control, it ran for a few seconds then kicked off.
Did I burn out the electrodes or transformer by running it non stop? Bob: No. Running a furnace non-stop for two hours should not itself damage the equipment. On the coldest windiest day of the year in a poorly insulated home an oil burner might run almost continuously for hours.
Something else is wrong. We have replaced the electrodes and nozzle on the furnace. It will only light with the door open and stay going after you close the door - seems like it is not getting enough air. What could be the problem? If you mean that the door to the boiler room or furnace room has to be open for an oil burner to work, that suggests it's air starved - we need about 1 sq.
If you add louvers and screening the sq. But lack of combustion air usually leads to sooty operation and the oil burner going off on reset, or worse, loss of heat. The bit about " If we don't have enough combustion air to ignite then we shouldn't have enough combustion air to keep going.
I figure you need a service call from an expert heating service tech who will check the condition of the burner, combustion air setting, cleanliness of the flue vent connector and chimney, the draft, and a few other parameters.
Watch out : turn off the system immediately. When a fuel unit keeps pumping oil into the combustion chamber without ignition, later ignition can cause a dangerous puffback explosion. It sounds as if your oil burner safety controls are not working or have been bypassed. This is an unsafe heating system that needs repair by a trained service technician. Anyone know what can goes wrong with the valve in the oil gun assembly and where can I buy the gun assembly with the valve and the nozzle adapter?
Armed with the brand and model of oil burner you could certainly buy an entire assembly, even the burner tube, and replace those parts, but before considering that I'd look for normal maintenance replacements instead. The usual parts that are replaced are the electrodes if the ceramic is cracked or damaged, and of course the nozzle at annual service. If someone heavy-handed has worked on the system and over-torqued the nozzle into the nozzle adapter there could be damage and leaks at the nozzle adapter or at the connection of the adapter to the oil tube.
The turbulator, if your oil burner gun has one, is cleaned but rarely would need replacement. Sept 21, Anonymous said: I have an old Brock engineer oil furnace and black soot comes out of the damper on the floor.
Is that normal? Richard, it sounds like an oil burner clean out and tuneup are needed along with a chimney and combustion air check. Dec 22, Lloyd said: I have an Aero burner, can Beckett brand electrodes be used in this burner? I think that you're ok as long as the electrodes, including the metal electrodes themselves and the ceramic insulators and their end connectors that marry the oil burner transformer power supply contacts are in all regards the right dimensions.
Jan 14, Anonymous said: my hot water heater oil burner keeps turning on and off when it first fires. It will then stay running after that.
A couple times it tripped out. There could be simply a loose wire, or the oil burner may simply need service. Don't let it go too long. The risks include loss of heat or a puff back. Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia Try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly.
Note: appearance of your Comment below may be delayed: if your comment contains an image, web link, or text that looks to the software as if it might be a web link, your posting will appear after it has been approved by a moderator.
Apologies for the delay. Just ask us! Search the InspectApedia website. Comment Form is loading comments Beckett Corporation, Center Ridge Rd. Instructional Technologies Institute, Inc.
To obtain the proper light-off and run that is required for long-term cleanliness, some performance may have to be sacrificed. With our F series heads, we generally find that from. For all of the reasons noted above, however, that is not a hard and fast rule. There are some O. Yes, there is an overlap between a gallon and a gallon and a half. The only sure way to know which nozzle provides the best performance is to put them in and run the combustion tests.
That is the way the correct nozzle is determined in the laboratory. Here are some other factors. The burner combustion system is a factor as is the chamber size and shape. The circulation or recirculation patterns within the combustion zone and the design of the burner combustion parts will have a much greater influence than any of the other factors involved. The flow of gases within the combustion zone is extremely difficult to study without disturbing or upsetting the pattern.
Therefore, when you must install the nozzle, test it with instruments, listen to it and look at the flame for the best performance possible. Much information is available regarding the selection of the proper nozzle size in a retrofit application. We cannot cover it all here. Instead, the sources of that information are listed below. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser.
Oil burner nozzles are the working end of the burner assembly. If they are not regularly checked and well maintained, the nozzle will malfunction and will not last long. After a while, due to changes in temperature, there maybe a build up of deposit and corrosion. When this happens, it will affect the effectiveness of the burner. This will cause it to get inadequate fuel for firing which will affect it lighting up. A qualified oil services engineer can check the burner nozzle for any sign of corrosion and try to remove the build up of rust around the head of the nozzle.
The pipe lines that connect to the furnace nozzle are also susceptible to puncture or rust. These need regular checks to ensure they are not in any way damaged as this causes a loss of fuel intake.
For example, the Special Design AR nozzle is designed to minimize oil burner flame noise or rumble. Oil fired heater BTU output estimating tip : If there is no data tag on the furnace or you can't find the oil burner output BTUH you can guess it as follows:.
Multiply the oil burner nozzle size firing rate in gallons per hour x , Btus per gallon of No. Below: Delavan's summary table describes the both recommended and substitute oil burner nozzle types or patterns for various oil burner manufacturers including Aero, R.
You might see for example red caps associated with a particular nozzle spray pattern. And blue caps with another pattern. I give some examples of oil burner nozzle color coding below. If the manufacturer is using color coding for the caps on or vials for the oil burner nozzle containers it may vary among manufacturers, but as you'll see in my table below, there are indeed some conventions such as.
You'll notice that while there are conventions, the letter codes do not map perfectly among manufacturers and some produce nozzle types not sold by others. For example a gray Hago oil burner nozzle vial signifies an air-atomizing siphon nozzle intended for burning waste oil while a gray Delavan oil burner nozzle vial would signify either an AR-D solid anti-rumble nozzle or an R-D center-weighted solid cone nozzle.
Watch out : Take a look at the letters marked on the oil burner nozzle vial cap and then look at the letters and numbers stamped into the nozzle itself to be sure your nozzle is what the vial cap and color say it is. Note: Hago products are now managed and sold unde the Danfoss brand. At the right side of the nozzle assembly you can see the sintered bronze filter that protects the oil burner nozzle orifice from clogging.
But of course if oil reaching this point is dirty say you never installed that oil filter or it's leaking debris , this final filter will clog. Our oil burner nozzle photograph above shows the outlet end of the nozzle and you can see that there is a stainless steel insert with a small opening that forms the spray pattern for this device. Before manufacturers started using these beautiful steel inserts the entire oil burner nozzle was made of brass - and the spray opening would wear during the heating season, leading to a bad spray pattern.
This is not the case any longer and the nozzle below will have no wear problems provided it is replaced during annual maintenance. In an emergency oil burner texts suggest cleaning this filter or even removing it and trying to de-clog the nozzle orifice.
We don't recommend those steps. When the service company buys oil burner nozzles in huge quantities in their case each oil burner nozzle comes in a usually color-coded plastic container such as the one we show at left, indicating the gph rating and the nozzle angle and spray pattern.
The number of oil burner nozzle sizes and spray patterns is quite large because the nozzle properties have to accommodate not only models of oil burners themselves but more critically, different sizes and shapes of combustion chambers in boilers, furnaces, and water heaters, and different combustion chamber designs wet base, dry base, for example.
So how do we choose the right oil burner nozzle? We need to know the equipment specifications for the oil burner nozzle recommended by the manufacturer. You can find that in the installation and service manual for the oil fired device, you can ask the manufacturer, or you can use a nozzle guide such as the W. Steinen Mfg. Nozzle guide - a book that lists literally thousands of oil burner nozzles for every application. You will see that for each brand of oil burner, or boiler, furnace, or water heater, and for each model within that brand , there is a listing of the required oil burner nozzle.
These oil burner nozzle specifications will show the GPH capacity, spray angle, and spray pattern. Note that below both Danfoss and Hago oil burner nozzles are essentially the same company; check documentation and nozzle guides under both brand names and substitution charts.
On by mod - ok to downsize the oil burner nozzle? On by mod - oil burner soots up alot. If the burner is sooting abnormally AND has a nozzle that's within the range permitted by the manufacturer for your oil burner, the tech will look for any of quite few other causes of oil burner sooting like air leaks, dirty oil, wrong pressure, poor combustion air, wrong draft settings, bad electrodes. My oil burner soots up alot and it looks like there is un burned oil on the flu and it also clogs up the entire burner body at least once a year i have to take the whole burner apart and vacuum it could my nozzle be to big spraying to much oil thats not igniting?
On by mod - can I go down to a. Depending on your oil depending on your oil burner that depending on your oil burner that might be a depending on your oil burner that might be a pretty big depending on your oil burner that might be a pretty big change depending on your oil burner that might be a pretty big change in gallons per hour depending on your oil burner that might be a pretty big change in gallons per hour depending on your oil burner that might be a pretty big change in gallons per hour.
Look at your oil burner for a tag or sticker that gives the allowed range of nozzle sizes and also be sure you're using the proper angle or width of spray. On by mod - replace a. On by Matt Collins. On by mod - hollow cone vs solid cone operating problems on a Riello RG 1 oil burner. Nick Even when changing from solid to hollow cone nozzle while keeping the same spray angle and GPH rating it would make sense to check and adjust the air shutter.
You would not change the electrodes. The electrode gap, height, and forward-space from nozzle face would remain the same. However when changing a nozzle, if the nozzle dimensions moved the face of the nozzle forward or backward from the previous one the electrodes might need fine tuning. Also, of course, its possible to foul up the nozzle electrode position during nozzle change as often the electrodes have to be loosened and moved to replace the nozzle.
A blocked oil burner nozzle can occur for a range of reasons, of which the most-obvious is debris in the oil supply, perhaps made worse by failing to change the oil filter and fuel unit screen; but an improper adjustment of electrodes or combustion air supply or draft can result in a smoky flame that fouls the nozzle end.
0コメント