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The Turnigy 9X was my first radio, and while it served me well to start, I quickly outgrew it and upgraded to a Taranis. So for half the investment of a Taranis, you could get started in the hobby. Sticks on the Turnigy 9X are good, but you are stuck with whatever channels each switch is assigned to. There are also only 2 three-position switches, so some people may find that limiting.
What I really like about this radio is that there is a lot of scope to upgrade it and add more features as you need them and grow into them. For example, even though the receivers that are available for this radio are PWM-only and with a max range of around meters, the module in the back of the 9x is swappable, so if you removed the stock Turnigy module and added a FrSky DJT module, you could use PPM receivers with it now.
If you have both the firmware and the DJT module, and you are up for some delicate soldering, you can even enable telemetry which is not natively supported. So while the Turnigy 9x is a little limited to start, it most definitely does the job for new entrants into the hobby who are unsure how serious they are. With the potential to upgrade, you can gradually unlock more potential. We are a professional manufacturer for ESC with more than 10 years experience. ESC to you.
Comments from market: Size and weight of the Cicada are definitely an advantage. The manufacturing quality is very good. Everything looks clean and all components are on place.
The PCB is 1. I strongly suggest you to buy! Is the Taranis still your favorite radio? Are there any others available that you would say compare to it? I still prefer the Taranis and would get it again if my current one broke!
If you have looked at some radios online you may of noticed that many give you an option to choose a different mode eg Mode 1,2,3 or 4. These modes represent which stick does what for example which stick is the throttle. The most common mode for mini quad pilots is mode 2 with the throttle on the left and I would suggest that you stick with this unless you have prior experience with other modes. Once you adapt to a particular mode it will be challenging for your muscles and brain to switch!
If you do go for a more exotic mode don't worry, it's preference for you and won't affect anything else. Many radios allow you to open up the gimbals and switch modes at your leisure. The gimbals are the sticks that you use to control your mini quad. For mode two pilots you will have one on the left controlling throttle and yaw leaving pitch and roll to the right hand gimbal.
Good gimbals can be adjusted for size, tension and can have customisable stick ends. Some gimbals have better quality sensors such as hall sensors. These rely on magnets instead of a brushed joint which give a much smoother feel and more precise flight experience.
The gimbals on a transmitter are much longer than an Xbox or Playstation controller and there is no right or wrong way to hold them. Typical options include pinching the sticks between your index finger or thumb or by just using your thumb on it's own.
In general whatever radio you choose you should read some reviews to check if they are pinch or thumb friendly. A pincher will want longer travel but will have to beware of any potential switches they could knock by accident. They may also require a neck strap. Transmitters don't just have gimbals, they typically have an array of switches you can use for arming and changing flight modes etc. Switches come in two or three position forms as well as sliders however as mini quad pilots we don't really need too many compared with aircraft flyers or our photography friends.
I would suggest having a radio with four configurable switches will cover everything you could ever need. Speaking of switches each one will require it's own channel and the gimbals require two each one for each direction. That means a six channel radio will only let you use the gimbals and two switches even if it has more.
Higher end radios will give you up to 16 channels which is more than you can ever need. If you are planning anything special make sure you have enough channels free to make it all possible. So far we have covered how the radio talks to the quad but some quads can actually talk back relaying important information such as battery voltage and signal strength. This information can either be displayed on a screen or read out by audibly by the remote to warn you when to land or when you are out of range.
Having this read out audibly to you is great as you can focus on flying and won't miss any warnings which could cause you to crash or lose a quad. The more intelligent transmitters are extremely powerful allowing your radio to whatever you imagine. Any radio running Open Tx is highly programmable with logical switches and special functions.
Here's a few examples of what can be achieved besides playing snake on the radio:. No Problem. If you are looking for something that really can do anything and are willing to put the time in you can't go wrong here!
Many radios come with an external module bay which allows you to place a large array of standard RC sized modules in a completely different radio. Multiprotocol modules are also available which allow one radio to control nearly everything including toy drones with their own remotes.
High end radios will have built in Li-ion batteries with a built in charging circuit allowing you to charge your radio with a simple DC jack. These typically will last for days before they need charging and is most peoples preferred option. The cheaper radios on the other hand may not come with batteries at all and run on AA batteries.
This is something worth considering when buying a budget radio is it may cost you more than you'd expect in the long run. The only advantage to this type of battery is that they are readily available and can be swapped with little down time. In the middle you category of radios that can run off lipo batteries but they will require you to charge them separately.
On the plus side you get the long battery life at a low cost however you also have to source, charge and manage a lipo yourself. Some radios may also come with NiMH batteries which will not last as long. Talking about batteries brings us onto mods nicely. If you were to go to a race or just a meetup for experienced pilots you may notice that none of them are running stock transmitters. Many users in the FPV community mod their transmitters to meet their specific requirements weather that be functionally or aesthetically.
My personal radio has a slot for Li-ion batteries, upgraded gimbals, larger stick ends and a aesthetic touch ups to the switches and antennas. As your radio is another component you can't crash unless you drop it! If you are willing to pay a bit more for the assurance that you really, really will have the most solid link possible.
The Nano receiver will be the preferred Crossfire receiver for almost everybody reading this. There are larger receivers, intended mostly for fixed-wing aircraft, and there is a Nano Diversity receiver that comes with two antennas, if you intend to push really long distances. For a typical FPV racing or freestyle pilot, the one linked above is the best choice. The starter set is the most economical way to switch to Crossfire.
Be sure to get the right kind. TBS Tracer operates in the 2. Under typical conditions, Tracer goes about km, which is similar to FrSky. But Tracer does it at much lower latency—great for racers and pilots who want the most connected feel. Under ideal conditions, Tracer has been pushed out to about 20 km, but it has to use massive 1W output power to do this, which increases the chance of interference between pilots, and sucks down your controller battery faster.
Tracer and Ghost both operate in the 2. The main appeal of Tracer is that it gives very low latency and adequate range, while keeping you in the TBS ecosystem. Switching from Crossfire to Tracer has almost no learning curve. Getting started with Tracer is easy, because most Crossfire tutorials also apply to Tracer. And Tracer is fully supported by a wide range of hardware and software. But Ghost can switch from FLRC to LoRa, in which case it trounces Tracer for range, but at a tradeoff: you either increase latency or give up telemetry.
ImmersionRC Ghost operates in the 2. But Ghost uses a sophisticated modulation technology called LoRa to get unbelievable range. Under typical conditions, Ghost can go km; under ideal conditions it can go 50 km or more. The main appeal of Ghost is its flexibility. Ghost is the ideal system if you intend to cruise mountains 10 km out one day, smash a concrete bando the next day, and race the next day.
Because it operates in the 2. In addition, its maximum output power is only mW, so its ultimate range and penetration is less than Crossfire and even Tracer, in an apples-to-apples test.
But some people do care. The performance of the micro and the lite Ghost module is identical. The Atto will be the right receiver for most people; the Zepto has identical performance but is much smaller and lighter, ideal for tiny quadcopters. This is it. I get super excited when I see a small thing done really well, in a way that I never knew I needed. Especially when you have FPV goggles on your head, taking off the neck strap is a pain in the butt.
But walking around with your transmitter dangling in front of you is so awkward.
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